This surreal mishap sums up what I love about Vienna, why life in the Austrian capital is so different from the clichés. Yes, it’s famous for its palatial architecture, its balls, cream cakes and carriage rides. These things are all here, and if you stick to the tourist trail you won’t be disappointed. But you’ll miss the other side of Vienna, the side the locals see.
I first came to Vienna 40 years ago, during the grey days of the Cold War. Back then, it was the end of the line, surrounded on three sides by the Iron Curtain. Further east than